KINLEY KHANDU CHODEN | Thimphu
Every morning, before the streets of Thimphu become crowded with office workers, students and shoppers, Sona Lal Ram unlocks his small cobbler’s shop and prepares for another day of repairing worn-out shoes. With a few simple tools, years of experience and steady hands, he quietly restores footwear that many people would otherwise throw away.
For the past four decades, the 57-year-old has worked as a cobbler in Bhutan, making a modest living through a profession that has been passed down through generations in his family. While modern lifestyles and the availability of inexpensive footwear have changed consumer habits, Sona Lal continues to believe that honest work, patience and quality service are enough to earn the trust of customers.
Originally from Bihar, India, Sona Lal’s journey in Bhutan began through his father, who first came to the country in 1975 in search of work. At that time, opportunities in their home village were limited, and repairing shoes offered a practical way to support the family. Ten years later, in 1985, Sona Lal followed in his father’s footsteps and joined him in Bhutan.
“I learned this work from my father,” he said. “He was already working here when I came, and since then I have continued the same profession.”
What started as a family trade eventually became a lifelong career. Forty years later, the small workshop has become more than just a workplace, it represents stability, perseverance and the value of skilled manual labour.
Unlike many occupations that have changed dramatically with technology, the work of a cobbler still depends largely on craftsmanship. Every pair of shoes presents a different challenge. Torn soles must be carefully replaced, loose stitching needs to be strengthened, broken zippers repaired and damaged leather restored. Each repair requires attention to detail because customers expect their shoes to be durable once again.
Over the years, Sona Lal has built a loyal customer base. He believes the reason people continue returning is simple.
“Providing quality service is important to me, and I am happy that my customers appreciate my work,” he said.
On an average day, he serves around eight to ten customers. Some come to repair school shoes, while others bring office shoes, boots, sandals or bags. Although each repair may seem minor, together they provide the income needed to support his household.
His earnings average around Nu. 600 to 700 a day, amounting to approximately Nu. 20,000 each month. While the income allows him to meet basic needs, a significant portion is spent on rent before any other household expenses are considered.
Every month, he pays Nu. 5,000 for the house where he lives and another Nu. 5,000 to rent the small shop from which he operates his business. Altogether, half of his monthly income goes directly towards rent, leaving the remaining amount for food, utilities and other daily necessities.
Despite these financial responsibilities, Sona Lal says the income is generally enough to support his family’s everyday needs.
“I can manage groceries and household expenses with what I earn,” he said.
He lives in Bhutan with his wife, who is a housewife. Together they raised four children, all of whom completed their education in India. Like many migrant families, education remained one of their biggest priorities despite the financial sacrifices it required.
For Sona Lal, seeing his children complete their studies is one of the proudest achievements of his life. It reflects years of consistent work, careful budgeting and a determination to provide opportunities that were not easily available during his own childhood.
Running a small repair business, however, is not without its challenges. Income is never guaranteed and largely depends on customer demand. Seasonal changes have a direct impact on the number of people visiting his shop.
Business is strongest during the school season, when students prepare for the academic year. Parents often prefer repairing school shoes rather than purchasing new ones, creating a steady flow of customers.
“The school season is usually the busiest time because many students need their shoes repaired,” he said.
During these periods, the shop remains busy throughout the day, with customers waiting to have worn soles replaced, torn stitching repaired and damaged footwear restored before schools reopen.
However, the months of February and March are considerably quieter.
“During February and March, the number of customers decreases, which also reduces my income,” he explained.
With fewer repairs coming in, daily earnings decline, making it more difficult to manage expenses. Like many people working in the informal sector, there is no fixed salary to rely on during slower months. Every day’s income depends entirely on the number of customers who walk through the door.
Despite the uncertainty, Sona Lal has never considered giving up the profession that has supported his family for decades. Instead, he continues to arrive at his shop each morning, ready to repair another pair of shoes and greet familiar customers.
In an age where fast fashion encourages people to replace rather than repair damaged items, cobblers like Sona Lal help extend the lifespan of everyday products. Repairing shoes not only saves customers money but also reduces unnecessary waste, contributing in a small but meaningful way to more sustainable consumption.
Yet, despite the value of their work, traditional trades often receive little public attention. Many skilled workers continue operating small businesses with limited resources while adapting to changing market demands.
For Sona Lal, however, success has never been measured solely by income. Instead, it lies in the relationships he has built with customers over the years and the dignity he finds in earning an honest living.
After four decades in Bhutan, his workbench has become a witness to thousands of repaired shoes, countless conversations with customers and the quiet resilience that defines many small business owners. Every stitch, every replaced sole and every polished shoe tell a story—not only of craftsmanship, but of perseverance.
As he continues his daily routine, Sona Lal remains committed to the profession inherited from his father, carrying forward a family tradition that has sustained three generations. His story is a reminder that behind many of the small roadside workshops scattered across Bhutan are individuals whose dedication, hard work and quiet determination continue to serve their communities, one repair at a time.
